Ranching on the Byway

Terri Licking • May 05, 2020

The Sandhills Journey Scenic Byway has diversification on its 272-mile route like no other highway in the state. – where land has been adapted by man to fulfill human needs – in the villages and the cities and the fruitful and abundant farm ground that helps feed the world. One can see this on both ends of our byway, from the corn and soybean fields of the east to the wheat, sunflower and sugar beet fields of the west.


In the central area, west of Anselmo to just past Ellsworth, 160 plus miles, begins the ranching sector. Here, man has adapted to the land to raise the beef that helps feed the world. Yes, there are fences, windmills and other man-made objects that help make this the best cattle producing area on earth, but one does not need to go far in these Sandhills to see land that is untouched by human hands. Farming was attempted by the early homesteaders, but the ground is too sandy to sustain crops, so cattle ranchers bought out the homesteaders. Here, it was not the gun that tamed these hills, but the barb wire and the windmill. 


Open range was the norm in the early days, where cattle from several owners mingled. The only way to tell them apart was the brand from a hot iron that marked ownership then, and still is one way that marks ownership today. 


Ranching, like farming, is hard work, labor intense but a great way to raise a family. Many a ranch here has been in the same family for five or six generations. Ranchers like farmers, are good stewards of the land and the animals they care for. If they weren’t, multi-generational families would not call this area home. 


Ranching through the year has many seasons, late winter, early spring is the ‘season’ I share with you here.


As the cranes arrive in March on the Platte River near Grand Island, baby calves have arrived or will arrive for many. This is the product that a cattle producer has worked all year to obtain. Seeing the new babies up on their feet, frisking around with their playmates or getting nourishment from their mama brings great satisfaction to their owners. Now though, the work to raise them from the ‘gate to the plate’ begins in earnest. Vigilant producers save many a calf from deadly diseases, but weather’s wrath cannot be controlled. Single digit temperatures, blizzards with bone chilling winds can cause a newborn calf to freeze in a matter of minutes. These hills offer great protection for mother cows to have their young when it is just windy, but adding moisture and single digit temps, the calf loss is more than one would like to see. 


The rancher though, downtrodden through these times, will state “Maybe next year” and continue to do what his father, grandfather, and great-grandfather did before him – carry on the best way they can. 



One of the busiest days on a ranch in the spring is branding day, done after most of the calves are over two weeks old. For many, the only additives from a century tradition is portable panels, propane branding pot that heats the irons, and the vaccines that help keep the calves healthy. Neighbor helping neighbor, rope, drag, wrestle, castrate (making steers out of the bull calves) vaccinate – one calf done every 10 seconds or less takes an orchestration seen like no where else. Several producers have gone from this method to less labor intense means – a calf table that the calf is put into to complete all the above tasks. Any way done, branding is a necessity to tell ownership of one black calf versus another. Ranching is not for everyone, but God knew He needed a caretaker for some of His creatures, so he made a rancher.

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By Mitch Hunt 19 Jul, 2021
Hello from the rejuvenated green hills of the Sandhills Journey National Scenic Byway. This past weekend saw a gentle rain of over 1.5 inches near Thedford, and elsewhere on the Byway, which was much needed moisture. Hope the moisture continues. Bulls are out to pasture, and cows and their calves are grazing on fresh grass. God is good! The Nebraska Passport Program is in full travel mode. As of June 28 – the number of Passport booklets requested – 43,680. The participants completing all 70 stops is 46. From the Passport app, total stamps collected were 31,758. Then add to the Tourism Passport, one can get stamps on the Nebraska Beef Passport with 40 restaurants serving great Nebraska beef and the Nebraska Wineries and Grape Growers Association has a Passport program as well. The biggest compliment one can have is plagiarizing, and that has certainly occurred with the Nebraska Tourism Passport, now in its 11th year. The SJNSB has eight of those 70 stops on or within our promotion corridor – which would make a great week-end excursion for the family. SJNSB Passport stops – Grand Island- Tommy Gunz Bistro and Stuhr Museum; Broken Bow – Chapins Furniture. (Not on the passport, but worth seeing on the east edge of Broken Bow is our SJNSB Visitor Center). Turn south at Merna, travel 21 miles to Arnold and enjoy Grazers Bar and Grill or stay on our Byway and at Anselmo – just north is Victoria Springs Recreation Area, Halsey -The Nebraska National Forest, Bessey Ranger District. Hyannis has the Hyannis Hotel, which is also on the National Register of Historic Places. At the western end of the SJNSB, Alliance has Shelmadine Print Shop. There are plenty of special events this summer happening on our Byway. Fireworks will be enjoyed on July 3 and 4. Sandhill Days will be celebrated July 3 at Halsey, with one of the biggest and best firework displays for a village of less than 100 you will ever see. July 9 at Grazers is the iconic CW band, Confederate Railroad. (Purchase of tickets required). Then the next day, July 10, the public is invited to Victoria Springs near Anselmo which will have their centennial celebration. Add in all the county fairs, rodeos, and water fun on the Middle Loup River, one cannot be bored on our byway. Bring your telescope, because after the festivities of the day, one can see the magnificent starlight in one of the best places without light pollution in the world! (Just leave the cities and villages, pull off on a county road, or far on the side of the road – safety first - and enjoy our night sky!) On a political note, support for the National Scenic Byway program will hopefully be accomplished in Congress before the year is out. The House has passed the INVEST in America act, where $64 million will be allocated over four years - $16 million each year. The Senate is working on their bi-partisan bill which hopefully will allocate NSBP funding as well. Contact your Congressman or Senator to encourage their support. Tourism is economic development! Locals cannot keep the restaurants, lodging venues or fuel stations supported on their own. We need the visitors here in rural Nebraska! The complete collection of all 184 byways in the America’s Byway collection is now out for viewing at the following link - https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/hep/scenic_byways/designations/fhwadesignationsbooklet.pdf And last – we contracted with Mitch Hunt, Huntrex LLC, to revamp our website. It is a slow process, but we know it will be better than ever to help us showcase our national designation. Stay tuned! Enjoy you travel time this summer –start in your own backyard – aka the Sandhills Journey National Scenic Byway!! Remember – To get to anywhere, one must go through somewhere – let us be part of that scenario! B C N U on the SJNSB! Photo credit above: SJNSB Primary Photo featured in America's Byway booklet. Photo by T. Phillips along the Middle Loup River between Thedford and Seneca.
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